An older man sat on his classic 9’6 with joy in his eyes, salt water in his veins, and a genuine love for his board underneath him, and the waves rolling in. He had just got off work and paddled out into the sunset for a half an hour of spiritual rejuvenation. He was sitting out with three of his friends enjoying the last bit of light that day, waiting for a swell to paddle into.
He was sitting on his board as usual, his hair, sun-bleached, hanging down past his shoulders. His face was wrinkled and tan, and had a scar from a burn on his right cheek, his eyes were blue and the water was shining on them making them sparkle. His shoulders, arms, and back were very muscular from paddling every day. He had Hawaiian style trunks on with Hibiscus flower pattern on them.
He was paddled with ease into the peeling three foot peeling waves. He rides the board with style, makes a bottom turn and carves up to the top of the wave, pushes on the very back of the board turns the board slowly down the face of the wave and falls. The wave pushes over him; he falls to the bottom of the ocean and scrambled to the surface, pulled his board back to him hopped on and paddled back out into the lign-up and talked to his friends about his horrible day at work. He sees another wave and started to paddle for it, but his friend said, “no way, this is mine bra”.
He was thinking about how awesome God’s creation was, he was looking out into the falling sun, with the orange lit up clouds, and the waves rolling in. He praises God for His great creation and thanks God for giving him such a great life. He looks out at the sky and remembers this sunset that God let him experience.
This man is extremely happy when he is in the water, it calms him down, relaxes him and it comforts him. The time in the water is a fun time to spend talking to Jesus and to talk with his friends. He can enjoy His creation to the fullest and talk with the creator at the same time. I hope to be joyful like this man until the day I die.